A few years back before there were gasket alternative I blew my front head gasket nearly every time I raced. That was on a low 12 sec car. I think one summer I changed 7 head gaskets on my car[:'(] If there is a record for changing the most head gaskets I think I own it. (or should I say it owns me)

 

Anyway, after MLS gaskets became available for our cars it was an improvement but I was also making more power. I blew out quite a few of those and developed techniques to make them last.

 

First and foremost, you need to run an intercooler. If you're making good power it's time to run an intercooler. Trying to be fast w/o an IC will cost you more $ in failures than what an IC costs to begin with.

 

2nd, Lower your timing. Sure running 28 degrees makes the most power but at a price. At ZZP, we've long since given up trying to eek out the last 2 or 3 HP in favor of keeping our builds reliable. 24 degrees of timing should be max for 15 pounds of boost or less. That is at the race track with race gas and a max effort car. For the street with pump gas, don't go over 18. If you run nitrous or more than 15 pounds of boost, lower your timing ~1 deg for every ~2 pounds or ~25HP of nitrous.

 

3rd is the procedures we use on the MLS gaskets to achieve our previously unheard of success rate.

- use copper spray. Forget about Hylomar, whoever started the rumor that this is better was wrong. We've tested, we've failed, we've succeeded. Stick with copper spray. Spray the gaskets so they get completely coated but not enough to cause a run. Do one head at a time let the sprayed gasket get tacky (about 5-10 minutes dry time).

 

- We have not seen a need for the super fine finish on the heads. Using copper spray seems to fill the small gaps in enough to compensate for any inconsistencies. I doubt the ultra fine finish hurts anything though so we will continue to use it on our S3 and 4 heads.

- Prep the block. That block need to be scraped and cleaned with something like a scotch bright. When you're done it should have a mirror like finish. Finally use some starting fluid (ether) on a lint free cloth to make sure it's oil free. Same goes for the heads. Do not touch the surface of the head or block. ANY oil (even from your skin) can prevent the copper spray from adhering to the surfaces. Even brand new heads should be wiped down, don't assume they are clean!

 

-Use moly lube! Make sure you don't get any on the mating surface. There should be plenty on the washer, bottom of the nut and on the threads of the studs.

- Run the right gaskets. There are 3.84 bore and 3.82 bore gaskets on the market right now. If you have a stock bore block run the 3.82. You'll have more sealing area, eliminate the gap between the block and the head, and make more power. Sure the difference is small but it is there and it doesn't cost any more to do it right.

 

ZZP credentials run deep in head gasket knowledge. We went from having the most failures to having the least. My GTP runs a 2.55" pulley full time with 9.5:1 compression and 93 octane. Trust me, it's making some serious cylinder pressure. It's made more 11 sec passes w/o failure than I can count and last time to the track it was driven there, made a couple 10 sec passes and driven home. No need to trailer home, no failures, no issues.